Best Bookshops

Only in Paris, with its world famous literary past, could you call a bookshop a ‘triptych’. But that’s exactly what Guillaume Dumora’s shop is – a hybrid, triple-purpose space with a “curiosity shop” for atypical and disturbing novels, a “gallery” where different paintings and photos are hung every 3 weeks, and the main “librairie”, where you’ll find everything from graphic novels to classic literature and modern poetry. Hang around long enough and you might even catch a live music concert, or meet an author on a book signing.  

Address: 71 rue de Ménilmontant 20e Paris
Opening hours: 10am-1pm, 2-9pm daily (until 11pm Fri-Sat)
Access: Metro Ménilmontant/ Gambetta
Phone: 01.40.33.04.54

'You can count the bookshops dedicated to theatre in Paris on one amputated hand', the shop owner remarks wryly. The Coupe-Papier bookshop is one of the few surviving ones. Tucked away in the rue de l’Odéon opposite the illustrious theatre of the same name, this specialist in the stage arts is the haunt of students and amateur actors taking acting courses in the vicinity, as well as a site of pilgrimage for professionals. Not yet beaten by the general decrease in bookshop footfall, the shop boasts an old-fashioned charm with its aroma of ink, paper and dust.

Address: 19 rue de l'Odéon 6e Paris
Phone: 01.43.54.65.95
Opening hours: Tue-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat 11am-7pm
Access: Metro Odéon

More info here. 

Encompassing more than 80m2 of floorspace, Violette and Co doesn’t sell books for the sheer pleasure of reading, but for a more militant purpose: all the works on offer promote causes to do with women and homosexuality. There are books about rape (including 'Rape as a weapon of war' by Vanessa Fargnoli), on homophobia ('Letter to a straight friend’ by Paula Dumont), on adoption, religion, gender relations and even deportation. There are also thrillers, poetry, comics and a beautiful section for younger readers. Readings, lectures, debates and exhibitions also take place regularly.

Address: 102 rue de Charonne 11e Paris
Phone: 01.43.72.16.07
Opening hours: Tue-Sat 11am-8.30pm, Sun 2pm-7pm
Access: Metro Charonne

More info here. 

Formed back in 1929, this string of bookshops is normally packed out with students. Further up bd St-Michel (nos.30, 32 & 34) are branches specializing in stationery, CDs, DVDs and art materials.

Address: 26-34 boulevard Saint-Michel 6e Paris
Phone: 01.44.41.88.88
Opening hours: 10am-8pm Mon-Sat
Access: Metro Odéon

A tranquil boozy and literary escape from the frenetically trendy streets of the Marais, La Belle Hortense with its pretty blue frontage is all about settling down with a good book and a nice wine.

Hosting readings and literary events, the walls are lined with bottles and books, including new releases, rare volumes, independent poetry and classic collections.

The wine list is enormous – quite pricy by the glass but much better value by the bottle or carafe – try a white Mâcon Solutré from the Bourgogne, a red Morgon Flache Somay, or splash out on top vintages like Saint-Emilion and Margaux. 

Address: 31 Rue Vieille du Temple 4e Paris
Phone: 01.42.74.59.70
Opening hours: Every day: 5pm - 2am
Access: Saint-Paul, Hôtel de ville et Rambuteau
Prices: Glass between 4-8 €, Meal: 12-20 €

Step through Artazart’s neo-70s orange façade and you’re in another world – an Ali Baba land of design-related coffee-table tomes (think photography, graphic design, fashion, illustration and children’s books) and Lomo cameras you can pick up for under 100€.  Chances are you’ll pop in for a quick browse, but beware: Artazart has ways of making you stay! Aside from thousands of books with eye-catching covers and content, your peepers will be drawn to the small art gallery section where selected local talents get to display their works.  Before you know it, your ten-minute look-around has turned into a 45-minute jaunt and you’re ready for a coffee somewhere along the Canal St-Martin, so you can show off the books you’ve just bought.

Address: 83 quai de Valmy 10e Paris
Phone: 01.40.40.24.00
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 10.30am-7.30pm; Sat 11am-7.30pm; Sun 2-8pm
Access: Metro Goncourt or Jacques Bonsergent

More info here. 

This Left Bank institution boasts a global selection of art and design books, and a magnificent collection of French literature and theory.

Address: 170 boulevard Saint-Germain 6e Paris
Phone: 01.45.48.35.85
Opening hours: 10am-11.45pm Mon-Sat; 11am-7.45pm Sun
Access: Metro Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Chantelivre is the first – and still the best – children’s bookshop in Paris. It began in 1974, when publisher l’École des Loisirs – at the time almost alone in the market of children’s books – set up shop to bolster the reputation of its publications. The shop has since opened up to new publishers, and now houses a near-complete catalogue of children’s literature (75% of 50,000 titles on the market).

Address: 13 rue de Sèvres 6e Paris
Phone: 01.45.48.87.90
Opening hours: Mon 1pm-7.30pm, Tue-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm
Access: Metro Sèvres - Babylone ou Saint-Sulpice

More info here.